Tonight I’m reviewing something quite special and unusual.
Prima Ciders come from Long Grove, Illinois, near Chicago. Prima has spent over
30 years on their cider-making process, though their labors have only been
available to the public for a fraction of that time. Only six liquor
stores in the United States sell their locally beloved ciders. While visiting
Chicago over the weekend, I purchased a 750 ml bottle for 18.50; this would be
a bit steep for ordinary cider, but tasting the Prima Most really is a rare
opportunity.
The Most cider, one of their three varieties, contains 7%
abv. The special methods Pima uses for the Most cider include cold-cellar
fermentation and bottle or cask conditioning. They refrain from filtering their
ciders for a farmhouse cider taste, look, and experience.
Color: cloudy light blonde
Immediately after pouring, this cider gives the glass an
almost frosted appearance because of its color and cloudiness. The Most cider
makes a tremendous fizz in the glass, but the bubbles dissipate quickly rather than
forming a head. The choice to share this cider unfiltered supports its claim of
being farmhouse style, at least in appearance. Let’s find out how it smells.
Aroma: sour and fruity, red currants, hints of funky
fermentation
The smell is sharply unlike most American ciders in its bold
earthiness. It harkens to English farmhouse ciders of the rough and rustic
sort. The cider’s aroma reminds me of The Black Rat, a Somerset cider, but with
less horsiness.
Flavors and drinking experience: lemon zest, grapefruit,
lots of carbonation
The Prima Most gives a first impression of a citrus
bitternessness that is tremendously refreshing. This smoothly transitions into
a crab apple bite that makes me feel just a bit of tannic pucker in my cheeks
and jaw. For a farmhouse cider, it is aggressively effervescent. Wonderfully
balanced.
Sweet to dry: dry
The combination of a
more sparkle with true dryness and fruit notes is a surprising and satisfying
combination. I love how dry it is, but I expect that it will surprise some
cider drinkers who haven’t had any small batch dry ciders before. The American
cidery with the most in common with this quality of dryness has to be Farnum
Hill. Good company to be in.
Finish: Extra lemon on the back, minerals
It has some of the mineral qualities of a dry white wine,
but the citrus farmy notes definitely give the last impression.
Pairs with: salad, many cheeses, and whole grain breads
At the risk of sounding stereotypical, this farm-style cider
goes well with simple foods. A heavily-grained bread like oatmeal bread or a
dense wheat would be a delightful counterpoint. To bring out the light
fruitiness of the cider, it could also be paired with salads. Like many many
many ciders, it enhances a whole spectrum of cheeses delightfully. Since this cider is relatively hard to come by, I'd not suggest pairing it with any activity at all. Let the Most be your entertainment.
This cider makes me sad to leave Chicago, despite the
terrible weather. The Prima Most shocks me with how good it is. This cider has
some of the best characteristics of English and American cider traditions. The
aromas tantalize; the flavor satisfies; the bubbles add zip. What a wonderful
beverage. I hope someday to be able to try their other two varieties.
