After
a week of bright heat in Ithaca, I am welcoming the shelter of clouds
and the possibility of rain. August brings an unpredictability to the
weather that feels a bit less risky than the ups and downs of spring.
I love it. Changes in weather allow me to switch up my cider routine
while still choosing my beverages to suit the season.
Today
that means skipping some of the extras I've been enjoying in my cider
all summer and just highlighting apples. This time, I'm after some of
my favorite apples, crab apples. I want to find out if these fruit
consistently bring both acidic sharpness and depth of flavor. Today's
review is Embark Craft Ciderworks Crab Series Volume 1.
But,
before we get to the cider, I'd like to share a bit about Embark
Craft Ciderworks. This cidery grew from Lagoner Farms, now in its 5th
generation of family ownership. The orchard was founded in 1909.
Embark has two cidermakers: Jacob Lagoner and Chris Gowan. Their
introduction talks a fair bit about apples, local food, and history,
but also gives a nod to the cidery that inspired Embark: Farnum HillCiders. Their output looks to have expanded a bit beyond that
inspiration though as Embark has released fruit blended and hopped
ciders as well as a range of purely apple ciders.
You
can read more about at their website:
I
previously reviewed the American Hopped:
http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2017/01/cider-review-embark-craft-ciderworks.html
Now,
The Crab Series Volume 1.
Here's
Embark's official description:
The
first release in The Crab Series, this is a unique dry cider. It
expresses flavors from three different crabapple varieties, balanced
out with the sweetness of Tolman Sweet and mildness of Rome Beauty
apples. It has a dark golden color and a flavor that lingers as you
drink it. A nice amount of tannins and balanced acidity make this the
cider makers’ drink of choice.
Awards:
Bronze, New World Cider - Heritage Category, The Great Lakes Cider &
Perry Competition (2015)
Appearance:
harvest gold, brilliant bubbly
This
cider looks darkly sparkling. The bubbles glint with gold in a
brilliant cider. Yes, this cider is inspiringly pretty.
Aromas:
honey, red currants, fermentation, minerality
There's
a lot happening in this cider when I bring my nose to it. At first
the Crab Series smells honeyed but also red currants and ripe
apples. Secondarily I can smell a bit of clean sourdough. Lastly, in
the background, there's hints of funky minerality that almost remind
me of a resting tractor on a summer afternoon.
Sweetness
dryness: off dry to semi dry
The
Crab Series' label indicates that the cider will be a semi-dry, but
this feels on the dry end of semi-dry, even off dry.
Flavors
and drinking experience: high acid, multiple kinds of fruit, some
tannins
Wow!
This is a fantastic cider. It tastes golden and rich but interesting
and zippy. This is a lithe and active cider that reminds me of lots
of summery white wines. It gives plentiful tropical fruit notes like
pineapple, rich and yummy. I do so love what crab apples can do for
cider.
As I
hoped, the crab apples in this cider make themselves known with
ongoing sharp zesty acidity and some tannic presence. As I drink
this cider, there's spreading warmth and red fruit notes that just
woo me. The tannins and acidity combine to great mouthfeel.
Let's
keep the pairings seasonal, even knowing that with a cider like this,
one has options. I'd happily serve this cider with tomato pie, corn
and pepper chowder, or even just pita and homemade hummus (don't
skimp on the olive oil, that's what makes it good). I had mine while
watching an impressive thunderstorm from an attic window.
