Monday, January 22, 2024

Cider Review: Snow Capped Cider's Wickson Crab

Giant publisher Conde Nast laid off most of the Pitchfork staff recently, dealing a horrific blow to the world of music writing. Last week, most Sports Illustrated workers were recently cut without ceremony. In the fall of last year, the majority of Bandcamp’s journalists were also let go. None of these sites were gutted because people were failing to produce quality work. I could track down countless similar stories. I’m sharing because I care about culture journalism just like I care about all journalism. 

I’m invested in that I started this cider review blog totally independently eleven years ago, and I’ve been reviewing ciders from around the world consistently since then. No one is paying me: not for advertisements, coverage, special access to tasting notes, or favorable notice. That’s how I like it. But it also means that I have to fit my cider work into the margins after getting my bills paid. That’s why I wasn’t at CiderCon in all the wild weather this year and for the past several. I have to budget what time and resources I can allocate to this passion. And maybe someday, it won’t make sense for me to write in this way.

The connection is simple. We live in an economic system that doesn’t value long-term investment for the sake of curiosity, care, or criticism. It wants efficiency, newness, growth, sustained by less and less and less. And this same system also makes it hard for cider makers, food workers, artists, farmers, scholars, game designers, and just about anybody who doesn’t have an alternate path to financial solvency. And that makes me angry and sad. 

I don’t want our world to become really, really boring as fewer people can use their time in interesting and creative ways. But what are our options?  This is the question in my mind when I sip my cider on these cold January nights. This week, I’m sharing my thoughts on Snow Capped Cider’s Wickson in addition to a cultural plight. I wanted a treat and Wickson Crab ciders are often among my favorites, and Snow Capped Cider has a great record of success as well. 

Here are all of my previous reviews of Snow Capped Ciders’ beverages. I include more background on the cidery and farm behind them in some of the earlier reviews. These ciders were shared with me for review, but my opinions remain entirely my own.








You can visit Snow Capped Cider’s website to find out about latest releases and news from the Colorado cidery: https://snowcappedcider.com/

Here’s what I could find on the website about the 2020 Wickson Crab cider.
For many years we have planted crabapple trees for pollination in our orchards. Now we harvest this scrappy little apple for its wild character in cider making. Wickson brings extraordinary high sugar content with razor-sharp acid levels. The result is elegant and fanciful. Wickson fills the palate with luscious, balanced, sweet notes of kiwi and honeydew building dimensional acid warmth with a lingering finish.

Alcohol 8.40%
This cider did merit a platinum medal at the Great American Cider Competition in 2021.


Appearance: intense honeycomb amber, brilliant, few bubbles

The color of the Wickson Crab reminds me of autumn and rich full honeycomb. It’s a warm and deep shade of amber that brings some real intensity. It’s a beautiful cider.

Aromas: overripe apple, minerals, mild oxidation, baking spice

The aromas remind me of familiar homemade applesauce. It’s an overripe apple nose with hints of baking spices. I do get just the barest hint of oxidation, but not to a troubling degree.

Sweetness/dryness: Off Dry

This tastes off dry. There’s enough acid and tannin in the mix that I bet the measurable sugar looks higher than it tastes.

Flavors and drinking experience: lush velvet tannins, high acid, mellow apricot, minerals, and citrus

The applesauce and overripe apple notes from the aroma return on the palate for the Wickson Crab. They are joined by apricot and citrus notes as well. The cider is redolent with fruity acidity and lush velvet tannins. There’s also a twiggy vibrance going on. What an amazing combination. Wickson Crabs really can produce just the most luscious and lively ciders.
 
The off the charts acid and beautiful tannins do not create an austere or minimal experience. Instead, Snow Capped Cider’s Wickson comes across as rich with the mood of peak autumnal splendor. The bubbles are much more apparent in the mouthfeel than they were visibly, which is a real treat. The opulence of this cider is bold and welcoming and wonderful. I love it.