Cider Review: Liberty Ciderworks Wickson Crab, Alpenfire's Glow Airlie Red, and Dragon's Head Heritage

 

We’ve crossed the Autumnal Equinox and (in the Northern Hemisphere) begun our descent through our harvests to the colder and darker portion of the year. Happily, we’re well into the local apple harvest, and I’ve been experimenting with apple recipes and desserts as well as cider.  

This week I want to cover the amazing ciders I got to enjoy as the Washington Fine Cider tasting last Friday evening. Tech issues gave me problems connecting and hearing folks, so I wasn’t able to connect with cider folks as much as I hoped. Nonetheless, I was thrilled about this cider lineup, and I understand that the session had plenty of good cider making and orcharding education. 

Thanks so much to Washington Cider Week and the folks who made it possible for attend virtually this year! Hopefully in a year very soon, I’ll make it out there, and we can enjoy these west coast orchards, ciders and dinners together in person. Here's hoping!

I started my tasting with Liberty Ciderworks’ Wickson Crab and a sharp Vermont cheddar.

For background info on Liberty Ciderworks, you can visit the cidery online or take a peek at my review of the Manchurian Crabapple SV cider.  

I only have one previous Liberty Ciderworks review. Check it out below.

Manchurian Crabapple SV Cider: http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2017/08/cider-review-liberty-ciderworks.html

I recommend checking out Liberty Ciderworks on the web: http://libertycider.com

The official description for Liberty Ciderworks Wickson crab single varietal reads:

RESERVE SERIES | 05.20

One of pomologist Albert Etter's finest creations, Wickson crabapples (introduced in 1944) were developed with west coast conditions in mind. True to form, this cider exhibits a bright, spicy character with green apple, nectarine, lemongrass and stone fruit notes. ABV 6.5% 

Aromas: overripe oranges, powdered sugar, dark berries, ripe apple, barrel 

The Wickson Crab smells rich, darkly barrel-esque (though from my understanding it isn’t barrel aged), with notes of apple seed, sweet cream and overripe oranges. Something in the aroma reminds me of powdered sugar. 

Sweetness/dryness: Off Dry

This is a lovely off dry cider.

Flavors and drinking experience: citrus, high tannins, medium sparkle, clean 

This cider tastes not sweet but citrusy, like blood orange. It certainly brings high acidity and medium to high tannins. I love that the Wickson tastes leathery but refreshing, which is a remarkable combo. This is one of my favorite apples, so I’m not surprised that a single varietal can taste this good! This cider offers a medium intensity of bubbles but I usually wish there was more. Liberty Ciderworks created a nice clean bright finish; I feel that’s extra neat given the cider’s dark nose. 

Next, I opened up my bottle of Alpenfire Glow Airlie Red. This needed to be paired with a very dark chocolate mousse. For background on this Washington cidery, I recommend my previous coverage of the company and Alpenfire’s website. 

My earlier Alpenfire reviews include the following.

Dungeness:http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2020/03/cider-review-alpenfires-dungeness-and.html

Flame: http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2017/08/cider-review-alpenfire-ciders-flame.html

You can visit Alpenfire to find out more from the cidery online: http://alpenfirecider.com.

The folks at Aplenfire offer lots of info about the Glow Airlie Red

Glow AERLIE RED

Single Varietal Rosé Cider

Winner, Cidercraft Double Gold 2018

Winner, Dan Berger Int’l Wine Competition Double 2016

Winner, SIP Best of the Northwest Silver 2016

Winner, GLINTCAP Silver Medal 2012

Vintage | 2018 (released October 2019)

Package - Cases | 500ml - 55 cases, 750ml - 164 cases, draft - 180 gallons

ABV | 8.2%

Varietals | Airlie Redflesh (Hidden Rose®)

Process | 8 week cold fermentation, 9 months matured in stainless tanks.

Our award winning Alpenfire Glow is fermented from the Airlie Red, an organically grown apple from the south end of the Willamette Valley with red flesh is what we use to create this single varietal rosé cider. No filtration, adjuncts, colorings, or other fruits are added to this cider, just full strength fresh pressed red fleshed apple nectar.

Aromas: floral, tropical, perfumed, ripe apples

The Glow smells tropical, perfumed, and floral. The predominant note is ripe apples, but I also smell peaches, pineapples, and bananas.

Sweetness/dryness: semi-dry

This is a semi-dry cider with no hint of anything artificial or non apple in its sweetness.

Flavors and drinking experience: high acid, low tannins, very sparkly, mild funk

Somehow the Glow tastes low in the mouth. I’m not entirely sure what characteristic I’m getting at when I say that, but it’s what I perceived. The cider brings a bit of Funk and loads of high acid that cling a with a pleasant burn. This doesn’t have the flavor profile of many rose ciders. The Glow is semi-dry with present but understated tannins. I love how much sparkle I get from this cider.  

The Glow has a lithe and zestly mouth feel. This is a fun one if you want to expand your expectations for Rose ciders!

I finished my tasting with Dragon’s Head Heritage cider.  

Dragon’s Head is a cidery based on Vachon Island off the coast of Washington State for more background information, I’ll point readers to my earlier reviews.

Wild Fermented (#1 cider of 2019!): http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2019/04/cider-review-dragons-head-wild.html

The cidery also appears in this write up of CiderCon: http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2018/02/cidercon-part-2-including-heritage.html

Here’s the website where you can learn more about Dragon's Head Cider: http://www.dragonsheadcider.com/

Here’s how the folks at Dragon’s Head describe it. 

Our heritage cider is crafted from a blend of more than 20 traditional English and French cider apple varieties grown in our orchard on Vashon Island, WA. These time-honored apples create a richness of flavor and character to cider that can’t be achieved with ordinary culinary apples. ABV of 7.3%.

I am so excited at that description of Estate bittersweet apples.

 Aromas: sugar snap peas, salt, wine grapes, wild rice

This is a cider that smells like a sea breeze. The notes I get are all fresh air, salt, wine grapes, and minerals. There’s a springy vegetal element like sugar snap peas. The Heritage Cider smell farmy, with shadows of mushrooms, wild rice.

Sweetness/dryness: Dry

This is unambiguously a dry cider, yet I’m glad it was saved for last.

Flavors and drinking experience: unusual profile, medium acid, high tannins, very funky 

What a wonderfully wild profile. This cider really does take those apples and make something very different than even the heritage ciders I’m accustomed to in my region. The Heritage has medium acidity but very high tannins. The apples certainly are bittersweets rather than bittersharps. I taste grape stem, there’s a bit of astringence and austere structure. The notes of wild rice and mushroom flavor that came through in the aroma continue to the flavor. I also get some cheese notes of extreme cheddar sharpness. The fruit comes across as the barest hint of a little dark sweetness. The cider is mature and very funky.

Cider Review: Mission Trail Cider's Dryhard Gold and Washington Cider Week!

I know it’s not a pleasant or fun thing, but so much of my brain is on the West Coast wildfires. My heart goes out to everyone there who has lost a home or orchard, had to evacuate, or cannot safely go outside. 

Here’s a list I found of ways to help. Feel free to put other suggestions in the comments.  https://www.cbsnews.com/news/wildfires-oregon-california-washington-west-coast-how-to-help-victims/

I’m reviewing Mission Trail Cider's Dryhard Gold today. Founded by two brothers Monte and Victor Jones, Mission Trail is a small producer not only of cider, but also perry, wine, mead, and jerkum. This Sonoma County producer began selling cider in 2014. Here’s how the folks at Mission describe their aim, “Mission-Trail has one simple goal- create innovative, and artisanal jerkum, perry, wine, and mead, while using traditional and innovative wine making practices.”

I have two previous reviews of Mission Trail Cider.

Champagne Style Hard Cider: http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2019/11/cider-review-mission-trails-champagne.html

Perry: http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2017/05/very-perry-may-pt-2-woodchuck.html

You can check out Mission Trail on the web here and buy cider online: http://www.missiontrailranches.com/

Here’s the official description of the Dryhard Gold, “Perfectly bone dry, single varietal Newtown Pippin aged one year for your sipping pleasure. Great acidity makes for a dry, tart finish. Alcohol 6.90%”

Appearance: brilliant, pale straw, no visible bubbles

Mission Trail’s Dryhard Gold looks very wine like in the glass. I’d call the color pale straw, and it's totally brilliant. I didn’t see any bubbles in the glass either.

Aromas: ripe apples, minerals, berries, melon

The Dryhard Gold smells like ripe apples, minerals, strawberries and melon! This smells like it's going to be a fun and fruity cider.

Sweetness/dryness: dry but fruity

This dry cider is as fruity as the smell promised. Its always fun when a complete dry cider is still brimming with fruit notes.

Flavors and drinking experience: high acid, bubbly, nutty, boozy and warm

The Dryhard Gold cider tastes warm but not hot but it feels a touch more boozy than its ABV usually does. The cider also brings some seriously high acid to the party. That might be part of how the cider tastes so fruity yet dry. I love a bubbly beverage, and the sparkle on the Dryhard Gold suits me well. 

As I sip the cider more, I can detect a nutty element in the warmth. I appreciate how cleanly fermented and not funky this cider tastes. Yes, I also love a bit of barnyard, but I don’t need that in every glass, and this one is shiningly clean. The medium tannins keep things anchored well.

This cider’s pleasing floral finish kept us sipping until the bottle was too quickly gone.

I had this delicious cider with Okonomiyaki, and our little group was wowed by the pairing. I highly recommend exactly this!

Now it’s time to share my unquenched excitement for Washington Cider week!

Check out the full even listing (including lots of shippable cider specials!) here: https://www.washingtonciderweek.org/event-calendar’

Join me (virtually) this Friday at the Washington Fine Cider Tasting!: https://www.washingtonciderweek.org/event-calendar/2020/9/18/wa-fine-cider-virtual-tasting-with-dragons-head-liberty-and-alpenfire

And for one more recommendation, this Instagram Live event with Caitlin Braam (founder of Yonder Cider) Sara Harvey (Head Chef of Hama Hama Oysters) sounded really interesting: https://www.washingtonciderweek.org/event-calendar/2020/9/17/instagram-live-with-hama-hama-head-chef-sara-harvey-and-yonder-cider-founder-caitlin-braam

Stay safe out there, and I hope to see you Friday!

Cider Review: Farmhaus Cider Co.'s Trocken Dry and Washington Cider Week!

Labor day has come and gone. I’ve been to Black Diamond’s orchard for the first time to walk through with Ian Merwin and pick up my apple and cider CSA. It’s a grand time of year, even in the bizarre pandemic life we’re trying to create. I’ll even give a silver lining, because so many cider week events have had to move online, it’s easier than ever before to take part in a cider week further afield. I never want to travel much during the local apple harvest time here; it’s simply too nice to miss. That means not seeing other harvest places and celebrations, until now!  

This year, I can join Washington Cider Week without having to fly across the country, and I’m grateful for that. 

There are still some things I cannot do, like enjoy a cider and pairing meal of Taiwanese food from BB6: https://www.washingtonciderweek.org/event-calendar/2020/9/10/republic-of-cider-meal-pairing-with-bbg 

Amazingly, there’s so much more I can do, including tour cideries and orchards and taste along with cider makers. The event I’m most excited about is the Washington Fine Cider Virtual Tasting with Dragon’s Head, Libery and Alpenfire. It will be a live tasting of 3 amazing ciders  Alpenfire Cider’s Glow; Dragon’s Head Cider’s Heritage; and Liberty Ciderworks’ Major Hewes with all the cider makers plus Cidercraft’s Erin James will be moderating.

Here’s the link if you want to find out more and join us! https://www.washingtonciderweek.org/event-calendar/2020/9/18/wa-fine-cider-virtual-tasting-with-dragons-head-liberty-and-alpenfire

You can read about all the events and cider makers at the Washington Cider Week website: https://www.washingtonciderweek.org/

Now for my review of Farmhaus Cider Co.'s Trocken Dry! The kind folks at Farmhaus Cider Co. shared a few ciders with me, and this is the last of them. 

I have three earlier reviews of Farmhaus Ciders.

Classic:  http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2018/06/cider-cans-crush-it-aeppeltreow.html

Crushable: http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2018/09/cider-review-farmhaus-crushable-and.html

Sweater Weather: http://alongcameacider.blogspot.com/2019/03/cider-review-black-diamonds-geneva.html

Find out all about this Michigan family-farm company on the website: http://farmhauscider.com/

So, what does Farmaus Cider say about the Trocken Dry? Here’s the introduction to it from the website.

Tart. Crisp. Unfiltered.

A delicious hard cider made with all local Michigan ingredients. This cider is fermented completely dry, giving it a crisp, tart taste consistent with a German Apfelwein, or some even say a sour craft beer. This cider pairs well with savory meats, strong cheeses and anything with spice. 6.9% ABV.

Appearance: Brilliant, moonglow, few bubbles

I was surprised to find the Trocken Dry rather brilliant for being unfiltered. Even with it’s clarity, something about this cider just looks thick. The Trocken Dry has a lovely pale moonglow color.

Aromas: sweet, overripe apples, cream, pastry

The Trocken Dry smells sweet like overripe apples. The concentration of apple aroma goes past juicy into nearly syrup territory. There are some notes that remind me of pastry and powdered sugar, but the whole experience is very appley though—that's the immediate smell. But I think my favorite surprise is how the aromas include just a hint of heavy cream. 

Dryness/sweetness: Semi-dry

To me, this cider tastes semi-dry but not actually dry. It’s fruity and natural in its sweetness, but it's not a dry cider.

Flavors and drinking experience: Medium high acidity, green apple, citrus, pleasantly drinkable 

The Trocken Dry offers up medium high acidity; again it’s quite appley: I’ll even go so far as t specifiy a certain tart green apple flavor. This is a relatively straightforward cider with a nice blend of fruit notes that include cherry and citrus as well as apple. The cider tastes pleasant and drinkable. The Trocken doesn’t rely on tannins for structure, that comes from the acidity and the sparkle. There’s much more acid in the flavor than the smell.

Another note in addition to the Granny Smith apple and tart cherries is almost a balsamic note—a good and intriguging one. I read an interesting dialogue between sweet rich smell and tartness.   The Trocken Dry has a thick mouthfeel.The fruit intensity is a bit like an apple syrup. Indeed, the cider drinks like a german apfelwein, a bit reminiscent of Charles Dodge's cider. It’s especially nice in big sips. I appreciate the cider’s clean fermentation.  

Ideally, I’d love to serve this with veggie tacos. The spice of chipotle roasted sweet potato, the warmth and substance of black beans, sweet onion and corn, a sharp cheddar, and some crunchy cabbage slaw would show off the tasteful simplicity of this cider beautifully.